History of Custom Suits

    The history of Custom Suits goes along with the craftsmanship and construction of garments made 200 years ago. Years before there were factories and ready to wear fashion, there were tailors who began the tradition of creating hand-sewn suits. Bespoke tailoring for individual clothing can last for many years and it is viewed as the most superior attire. The tradition of  hand-made custom suits continues to grow as both men and women choose to wear clothes of quality rather than quantity.

INTRODUCTION 

In the 18th century, all clothes were cut and sewn by hand, similar to the modern-day bespoke creations that we adore in modern times. Before the invention of the sewing machine, and for those who could afford custom suits, it was a privilege to have someone creates suit by hand. From the fabric selection to the multiple fittings and individualized style created: Bespoke tailoring for custom suits is idolized in Men and Women’s Fashion today.

Men’s clothing from 1841 featured waisted coats and large lapels.

LONDON FASHION

The tradition of custom suits was brought by the 19th century fashion in London. During that time, London was a capitol of the first world, and it attributed to the different styles of English and British fabric which were at the height of elegance and social status. There were different tailors for each classification of custom clothes: from shirt-making, coat, pant makers and even cloth handling for textiles and fabrications.

With the high demand of custom suits, Tailors would broaden their availability and price options for every man, woman and child that needed clothing in order to gain extra income. At that time, ready to wear clothing was not available, and clothing was either custom-made or given by second-hand sale.

Early Victorian Fashion

THE AGE OF THE SEWING MACHINE

In the countryside, custom clothing was made using cheap fabrics in people’s homes. Quite often, tailors would gain their source of income by working for external fashion houses with outsource for more work. In the 1700s, tailors started to think about ways to reduce the number of fittings by creating cutting systems which resulted in the invention of the sewing machine by the year 1790.

With the development of the sewing machine, the process of garment construction changed drastically resulting in factory manufacturers for machine based clothing.  In 1830, the first mass production opened in France to supply supply uniforms to the French army and clothing for civilizations were made shortly afterwards.

Sewing machine in 1846.

Ready-to-wear fashion

Ready to wear clothing were produced in mass quantities due to the required use of military and civil uniforms which were made at low-cost in high numbers. The ready-to-wear industry applied their knowledge of skills to creating uniforms in different sizes for civilians and achieved good quality and fit in the late 19th century.

However, bespoke tailoring for custom suits was still considered first choice for anyone could afford it. The appeal of bespoke tailoring remained the same with the prestige of having a garment created uniquely for the person.

The tradition of custom suits is still held high in value by both women and men, as the interest of custom-made clothing is viewed as a skilled of prestigious craftsmanship. For those men and women, owning a bespoke or custom suit is considered a wardrobe goal for many.

1865 Men’s Fashion

The basic process of cutting and creating garments by hand has been the since the beginning of the 20th century. Despite different tradition of tailoring from various locations, It takes around 60 hours in total to create a hand-sewn suit by a professional.

English tailoring was considered the top tier of quality from the 1700s until the 1920s. After the end of World War II, the rise of tailoring industry grew in both England and Italy. With the increase in training, many styles differentiated the aesthetic of how men wanted to dress. For instance, British tailoring emphasizes the overlook from a British upper-class man with features like a waisted-silhouette and broader shoulders, while in contrary Italian tailors preferred a slimmer look with narrow trousers and short jackets.

During that time, tailored Menswear became glamorized in old Hollywood films in the 1930s. In that timeframe, Women were also inspired to be dressed by the master seamstresses like the movie star, Marlene Dietrich herself.

1950s Fashion

1970s Fashion

1980s Fashion

 The industry of bespoke tailoring and custom clothing is not what it used to be back in the 18th century. Having a custom suit made for you in unlike buying any ready to wear item purchased at a store. The individual attention to the craftmanship with care results in a one of a kind piece that will last for many years.

At Luxtailor, we offer services for custom suits using the highest quality fabrics from Holland & Sherry, Zegna, to Loro Piana.

SPECIAL PROMOTION

Order a Custom Suit for $2,500 & Up and have One Custom Shirt included with the purchase. 

Call or Email for an Appointment

Phone: 212-759-6004

Email: [email protected]

Named as a top tailor in New York City by the Hollywood Reporter, Luxtailor is located on the Upper East Side, in the center of the shopping district of New York City (68th & Madison Avenue). 

We have the pleasure of working with a variety of designers brands, showrooms, luxury boutiques, stylists & private clientele. We work with both Men and Women for any custom tailoring, alterations or seamstress services needed.

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